FAQ

Gearlube is one of the very few manufacturers that has both a hot melt chain wax and liquid chain wax in its range. Thanks to the same unique composition of both products, they are perfectly compatible. In developing the Gearlube wax solutions, we started from our own longtime cycling experience and the use of both oil and wax as lubricant. This showed that there is a need for a chain wax that lubricates well, keeps the chain clean, but above all has good water-resistant properties. The latter aspect in particular leaves much to be desired with many wax solutions. The result is a chain wax that meets all the above requirements. Applies well without being greasy and adheres well so that the wax does not wash away to quickly in rainy weather. For us, the Gearlube chain wax is not just a by-product in addition to a range of oil products, as it is with most manufacturers, but the chain wax is the main product, where the benefit for the user prevails.

Oil in itself lubricates well, but oil also has the unpleasant side effect that it is a sticky substance, so that dirt easily adheres to the chain and sprockets. That's why a spotlessly oiled chain is already black after a short ride. Wax, on the other hand, is non-sticky and keeps the chain clean for a much longer period. However, the lubricating properties of wax are limited and to counter this, dry lubrication additives are added to both the liquid and hot melt Gearlube wax. These form a thin film of both wax and dry lubrication additives at the sliding points of the chain and sprockets, without dirt sticking to the chain. For example, even after more than 200 km, a chain waxed with Gearlube still runs like a "well-oiled" machine. And that while she remains immaculate.

Before applying wax to the chain, all components of the drivetrain must be degreased thoroughly. In the case of a bike with an external derailleur, this means that you have to clean and degrease the chain as well as the front and rear sprockets, and the derailleur wheels.

A new chain is also treated with some kind of oil in the factory. However, this is not lubricating oil, but only serves to prevent the chain from rusting. It is therefore a must to thoroughly degrease a new chain before mounting it on the bike. And this regardless of whether you lubricate the chain with oil or wax afterwards.

Degreasing the chain is quite simple and can be done in multiple ways. This can be done in an ultrasonic cleaner with hot water and detergent, but also by 'shaking' the chain well in a jar containing a chain cleaner, benzene or other degreaser. You can easily degrease the gears with a brush and the products mentioned above. Our preference goes out to ultrasonic cleaning, as this is a lot more environmentally friendly than using petroleum-based degreasers. After degreasing and rinsing, blow everything dry with a compressor or let it dry before applying the wax.

Absolutely! And that applies to both the standard versions with PTFE dry lube, as well as the Pro versions with Tungsten Disulfide (WS2) and Molybdenum Disulfide (Mos2) nano powders. The dry lubrication percentages used in the wax are so low that it has little or no impact on both the environment and people. In addition, the drivetrain can simply be cleaned with warm water and a little detergent. So no need for chain cleaners and solvents that are toxic and contain volatile organic compounds (VOCs).

Although both products use wax and both products do not stick after application, the approach is completely different. Liquid wax, like oil, is simply applied to the chain by means of a dropper bottle. No additional tools are needed and the chain can simply remain on the bike. The applied wax seeps through between the links and after a few hours of drying, the chain is ready for use. It is therefore best to apply liquid wax the day before you start riding the bike.

With hot melt wax, on the other hand, the wax is not liquid but solid and is melted in a wax heater, slow cooker or pan. To use this method, the chain must be removed from the bike. This used to be unthinkable, but by using a quick link to open and close the chain, this is now super easy and quick to do.

Once the wax has melted, the chain is immersed in it for about five minutes. The now liquid wax not only spreads over the outside of the chain, but also all cavities between the links and the rollers are filled with wax. For that reason, Gearlube hot melt wax has even better lubricating properties than liquid wax. After removing the chain from the wax and once it has cooled down, it can be put back on the bike and is immediately ready for use.

If you are looking for ease of use and simplicity in applying the wax, without having to invest in a wax heater, it is best to choose liquid wax.

The semi-pro or performance-oriented cyclist who also wants to get every watt out of his drivetrain and for whom removing the chain with a quick link holds no secrets, is better off choosing hot melt waxing.

Hot melt waxing does require a one-time investment in an ultrasonic cleaner and a wax heater. An investment that pays for itself very quickly because the chain and sprockets last a lot longer.

Tip! Use two chains per bike and alternate chains after every 300 km. Regardless of whether you choose hot melt or liquid wax. The advantage of this approach is that the bike is immediately ready for use after changing the chain. You can then clean and rewax the replaced chain at a time that suits you best. An additional advantage is that the chain, cassette and chainrings last even longer. Two birds with one stone.

Both the liquid and hot melt Gearlube wax, contain dry lubrication nano powders to ensure long-lasting lubrication of the chain. In the standard versions, this lubricant is PTFE, while in the Pro versions we use Tungsten Disulfide (WS2) and molybdenum disulfide (Mos2) nano powders. It is the combination of WS2 and Mos2 dry lubrication that makes a chain lubricated with Pro wax glide just that little bit better over the sprockets than the standard version. Ideal for the semi-pro or performance-oriented cyclist who, in addition to ease of use and a clean chain, also wants to get every watt out of his drivetrain.

That depends on several factors such as weather conditions and the type of surface, but in general it is a good idea to wax the chain after 250 to 300 km. It can also be less or more, but when the drivetrain starts to make noise, it's high time to apply new wax. 

Some cyclists run the chain through a microfiber cloth after every long ride and rewax with liquid wax because it's so quick and easy, but those are personal choices. The big advantage of this approach, however, is that the wax has enough time to dry and the bike is immediately ready for the next ride. 

In addition, we recommend that the chain be thoroughly cleaned every 500 km. It is best to do this ultrasonically, but for those who do not have such a device, it can also be done by 'shaking' the chain well in a jar or bottle filled with chain cleaner.

You use +/- 5 grams of wax for each wax treatment. So a bottle of 100ml is good for about 20 waxes or 5000 km of maintenance-free cycling fun.

Absolutely! The hot melt wax penetrates deep into the links of the chain, which guarantees long-lasting lubrication and protection, while a post-treatment every 200km with liquid wax provides the necessary lubrication to the outside of the rollers. The advantage of this approach is that you have to do less frequent hot waxing, without sacrificing in the quality of lubrication. An ultrasonic deep cleaning every 500 to 600 km, after which hot wax is applied again, is then more than sufficient.

By the way, Gearlube is the only European manufacturer that has both hot melt chain wax and liquid chain wax in its range. The unique and identical composition of both products makes them perfectly compatible and can be used interchangeably without any problems. This distinguishes Gearlube chain wax solutions from any other chain wax provider in the market.

Waxing a chain is a bit like painting. It is better to apply a few thin layers than one thick layer. As a result, the wax dries a lot faster and will also adhere better to the chain. Best way is to apply a drop of wax to the two hinge points of each link. Because the wax penetrates between the links, you get wax on the outside of the chain as well as in the links. Excess wax is best rubbed open with your fingers or with a soft brush. In this way, the wax also distributes itself better over the entire chain.

Applying the wax can be done with the chain on the bike, but even better is with the chain of the bike. Place the chain on a table or workbench and apply wax to each link. Hang the chain to dry afterwards before putting it back on the bike. That way, you avoid excess wax sticking to the sprockets, pulleys, and chainrings.

You often hear that wax disappears from the chain faster than oil in rainy weather and for the majority of the liquid wax available on the market, this is effectively the case. During the development of the Gearlube wax, special attention was paid to this aspect and it is fair to say, that the durability of our wax is comparable to an oiled chain in rainy or wet conditions.

However, it is "good practice" to wipe the chain dry with a cloth after a ride in the rain. And that regardless of whether you lubricate the chain with oil or wax. In the winter, when salt is spread on the road, it is best to rinse the bike and chain with cold water after a ride and then rub dry. Never with hot water, because the salt will dissolve in it and therefore adhere even better to the various components of the bike, with all the consequences that entails.

The dry lubrication nano powders that are added to the wax emulsion can sink to the bottom over time. By shaking well each time before use, those additives mix again through the emulsion and the wax is ready for use.

Yes, that's completely normal. The WS2 and Mos2 dry lubrication nano powders are dissolved in the wax emulsion, but over time some of them sink to the bottom. By shaking the bottle well, the nano powders mix again through the emulsion and the wax is ready for use. After application and drying, the chain will look slightly darker than before, but that too is completely normal.

The easiest way is to order three tablets at the start. You will need two tablets of 160 ml if you are using a 500 ml wax heater. The third tablet is then a spare to replenish the wax after some time. With a wax consumption that fluctuates around 5 grams per session, you can go on for a while. 

If you want to make optimal use of the wax, it is advisable to ultrasonically clean the chain with hot water and detergent before each waxing. This is not so much because the chain needs it, but it significantly increases the number of times one can use the hot melt wax solution. If you don't do this, you will always contaminate the wax with dirt that sticks to the chain, so you will have to replace the wax fairly quickly. By cleaning the chain ultrasonically first, you have almost no contamination and the wax remains usable for longer.

Overall, a waxed drivetrain can easily last two to three times longer than an oil-lubricated chain. Depending on the type of bike and drivetrain, you can save many euros.
Tip! Use two chains per bike and alternate the chain with each wax. This makes waxing the chain and cleaning the bike a lot faster and you can wax the replaced chain at a time that suits you best. In addition, the various drive components wear out less quickly. Two birds with one stone 😊

Dirt, sand and dust that sticks to an oiled chain mixes with the oil, creating a kind of semi-liquid abrasive paste. This is called liquid sandpaper. The more oil there is on the chain, the worse and faster this phenomenon will occur. One thinks that the drivetrain is well lubricated because there is a lot of oil attached to it, but in reality this only increases the wear and tear of all drive components. Therefore, after cleaning an oiled chain with an ultrasonic cleaner, a layer of dirt remains on the bottom that mainly contains sand and iron powder.

This cleaning method makes use of ultrasonic sound waves that are sent through a liquid (hot water & detergent) in which the object to be cleaned is placed. Before each ultrasonic sound wave there is a high-pressure area and after each wave there is a low-pressure area. In this low-pressure area, small bubbles form, also known as cavitation. However, the high-pressure area of the next wave cancels out this effect, causing the bubbles to implode, releasing quite a bit of energy. This force is so great that the dirt is catapulted from the object.

This non-destructive method of cleaning is used in many industries. Think of opticians, jewelers, hospitals, the automotive sector, etc. Recently, the bicycle industry has also discovered the advantages of this and you can find ultrasonic cleaners in many bicycle workshops.

A chain, and certainly an oiled chain, not only gets dirty on the outside, but dirt also accumulates between the links and the rollers. When cleaning a chain with degreaser and a cloth, you remove the dirt on the outside, but not what's on the inside. And that's where an ultrasonic cleaner makes the difference. This method of cleaning is also called "deep cleaning", because the ultrasonic waves also remove the dirt in places that you can't reach with a rag or brush. After cleaning, rinsing and drying, you will have a clean chain that, once waxed, is ready for many kilometers of cycling fun 😊

That depends on the specific wax application you're using. For example, when using hot melt wax, it is advisable to ultrasonically clean the chain with hot water and detergent before each waxing session. This is not so much because the chain needs it, but it significantly increases the number of times one can use the hot melt wax solution. If you don't do this, you will always contaminate the wax with dirt that still sticks to the chain, so you have to replace the wax fairly quickly. By cleaning the chain ultrasonically first, you have almost no contamination and the wax remains usable for longer. In short, cleaning is not necessary, but it's good for your wallet 😊

When using liquid wax, ultrasonic cleaning is not necessary with every waxing session, but a thorough cleaning every 500-600 km is recommended. When re-waxing, it is sufficient to pass the chain through a microfiber cloth before applying new wax. Wax that may stick to the gears is also best removed with a cloth or brush. In addition, it is a good idea to put the chain through a cloth after every long ride or every 100 km.